To my good friend - here's some tips for your forthcoming visit to Berlin!

Be sure to escape the bland commercialism of the old West side (you really could be in any city in the world) and see the REAL Berlin on the other side of the wall (part of it still stands). Some buildings here still show the remains of the bombs and bullet damage and it’s incredible to see (for example) huge holes in buildings not repaired conventionally with brick and concrete - but simply glazed! It adds a whole new dimension to the architecture and history!

If you see nothing else - you really must not miss the visit to the Reichstag (the original German government building) - see it in the evening if you can, as the queues to get in tend to disappear by the end of the day and the city looks wonderful from the top if it's a clear night (bring a coat - it's outside and gets quite windy)! The famous glass dome was designed by Norman Foster. Walk through the Brandenburg gate on your way to get a real idea of what it must have been like during the war.

The Turkish restaurant I mentioned is called ‘Hasir’. It's the best in the whole of Europe apparently - lots of famous people have visited. The address is on Orienburger Street (Old East side) no 4. tel 030/28 0416. Lookout for what the Rough Guide calls “the Grand Bazaar style Hawker outside the entrance”. – all will become clear! If you are on the underground take the S-bahn to Hackersher markt. There are lots of very good restaurants around this area but immediately to the West of this street is the Red light district - so you may not want to walk through this area on foot with James (!)

Although there is a restaurant at the top of the Reichstag with great views the food is below average and I think it’s overpriced. A better place for “lunch with a view” is at the top of the TV Tower (think Seattle Sky Needle meets Eiffel Tower). You will see its (fairly) ugly 1970’s architecture from virtually anywhere in Berlin and you may have to queue (again) to get into the single lift to get to the top – but it’s well worth the effort. The top very slowly continually turns 360 degrees every few minutes or so - so you don’t even have to walk round. Great place to have a simple cheap lunch (but you will need to book ahead).

The other places are a drive past the famous ‘Checkpoint Charlie’ – personally I found the actual museum a disappointment. But a museum very much worth visiting is The Jewish Museum (Lindenstrasse, 14). Full of interesting history – not just about the Holocaust.

That’s about it for now - I might think of something else later…– if anyone reading this has anything to add please feel free… !! Have a great time in what is undoubtedly my favourite city in the world – no really it is!!